Touchdown - Karachi
|General Info||City Index|
|Things to do||Travel|
|Church & Mission|
|Co-ordinates||Latt 024:52 N, Long 067:00 E|
code 92, City code 21, Exit code 00
Police 15, Fire 16, Ambulance 42-8100, Phone Enq: 17
|UTC offset||+ 5|
|Electricity supply||220 v AC and French 2 pin plugs|
|Things to do
For taxi try Ali: Phn 586-8082 (h) for taxi number H6064. Price should be about Rs250 per hour at exchange rate of Rs50 to the USD. Ali can usually be found outside the Shereton Hotel. Normal taxi rates are about Rs100 to 150 for a half hour trip (about $8 USD per hour).
The carpet shop in the Hotel seems to be OK, and they will also offer free taxi outings without obligation, but will include a visit to their wharehouse and main show room, of course!
For fishing/crabbing etc, try Captain Ali, Phn: 270333, boat 86 - or ask at the carpet shop in the Sheraton.
Be careful with security - read the local papers and you will see what is going on - car jackings are common (1998).
|Church and Mission|
|Holy Trinity Cathedral|
|Latest update||16-July 98|
|Characteristics||Both conservative and charismatic aspects available|
|Address||10 min walk from the Sheraton - check with Concierge.|
|Church Web site||N/A|
|Contacts||Rev Sadiq Daniel, Phn: 51 81 12.|
|Service times||Daily Holy Communion 0700
Thursday Healing service at 1900 (Urdu & English
Sundays 0800 and 0900 (English)
Sundays 1030 (Urdu)
|Languages||English as above, also Korean and other expat services.|
|Notes||Thursday night service is a great spiritual experience among the brothers and sisters of the suffering church. There is also a Theological College in the grounds of the Cathedral. See Notes on Cathedral below.|
|Latest update||16 July 98|
|Address||Phone for info|
|Church Web site||Nil|
|Contacts||Pastor Ashley Nunes: 491-3185|
|Service times||Sundays at 1000, mid week home cells.|
|Language||Urdu with English translation|
|Notes||Charismatic Fellowship with good leadership.|
|Other Church and Mission info|
|Church info in Pakistan... http://www.chpk.org/
There is an internatiotional and Baptist church as well. Ring Pastor Ashley Nunes above for more information.
THE PLAQUES SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES
Have you ever thought: "I wish I could find a 143-year old building built in the Florentine Renaissance style (with a Romanesque doorway) that was once compared to a hammer by the 19th-century explorer Richard Burton? A building with a history of construction problems? A building that encapsulates the story of the Raj on brass and marble plaques?" Well, look no further: Karachi's Holy Trinity Church, located on a ten-acre site coveted by local hotel owners, is the answer to your prayers, so to speak.
Holy Trinity was a problem building from the foundation-laying in 1852. Changing designers in midstream, the builders came up with an oddity described by Richard Burton as a "hammer with its handle turned heavenwards." Looming over the 115-foot nave was a 150-foot stone tower (the hammer handle), five layers of buff-colored stone cubes, studded with narrow Venetian windows, working their way up to a mediaeval battlement and a lightning rod. In 1904, the top two layers had to be removed before they fell over. At some point in the 1860s, the clock weights in the tower fell through the tower flooring and smashed into the baptismal font placed near the entrance. The font was replaced in 1870 by a tub of red Portland stone; you could immerse a medium-sized toddler in it. The stone flakes and crumbles easily in Karachi's hot, wet air, and it looks as though someone has replaced the base with a column of maroon marble nestled on a wreath of white marble.
Holy Trinity, like the font, is looking its age. The stained glass windows at the end of the apse are chipped here and there. They show Jesus with Mary and Martha ("Mary hath chosen the better part" on the left panel and "thy brother shall rise again" on the left) and ascending into heaven; he is missing his right elbow in the scene outside the tomb of Lazarus. "Some boys were misbehaving with stones," says the Pakistani padre. A heavy wire mesh covers the glass on the outside. A heavy cultural mesh covers the portraits: Jesus, Mary, Martha and the apostles are all lantern-jawed, grave, sentimental Victorian figures, completely unlike the rough-edged Bible folk trotting along on donkeys outside the church, both then and now.
You can see frequent uneasy mixes of the ancient and modern: wires, switches, lights and speakers awkwardly nailed to the columns in the nave; a barrel-vaulted roof of concrete; and brass and marble plaques mortared into the replacement walls of the aisles. These plaques proclaim the glory of Empire and the deaths that Empire cost to maintain. They mostly commemorate men, most of them military, with ornate British names, some killed in enemy action or by dacoits, some struck down by cholera, enteric fever and the heat: Lt. Theophilus Hastings Parker, 127th Baluch Light Infantry, died of fever, 1903; Francis Bright,Sergeant Instructor of Musketry, one of the dead in the Prince of Wales's Regiment, 1880-1881; Lt. Charles Bromherd Bannerman, 1st Baluch, shot before the gates of Delhi in the Sepoy Rebellion of 1857. One plaque preserves the sturdy yeoman names of the privates: Mudge, Gooch, Blount, Wild, and Wills of the Norfolk Regiment. A few afterthought natives get a mention: "over 200 of the native ranks" killed in battle with three named officers of Jacob's Rifles, in south Afghanistan in 1880; "one Indian rating," lost at sea in 1942 with a Captain Fullerton and a Lt. Waite. Only near the end of Empire can we see anything half exotic, with Desmond Merchant Riccomini, killed in an air crash in 1946.
Several administrators glory in their splendid titles: Revenue Officer, Lloyd Barrage and Canal Scheme; Head Assistant Collector, Sind Commission, and the Welshman with the best of them all: William Evan Davies, Commander of the Indus Steam Flotilla and Conservator of the River Indus. Several of them died on their way home, after retirement. You wonder whether they died from the cumulative effects of the climate, or from the fear of returning to a cold, drizzling island, with no servants and no status.
Oh, yes, and this is a church, and not just a memorial to the servants of the Raj. In a corner near the small chapel, to the right of the main altar as you face it, there are memorials to three joint chaplains, an organist (dead at 23) and a senior chaplain. And on the other side, the only subcontinental names in the whole plaquery: Chandu Ray, first bishop of Karachi (enthroned 1963, died 1983) and his wife, Ellen. With them, the plaques end.
English services at 8:00 and 9:00 every Sunday. Some things don't change.